GEARED EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY
Your geared Extruder is an Extra extruder, that replaces the basic extruder. It is capable of 90mm/s print speeds. It really makes quick work of very large prints.
Here's your super speed Dynamite Extruder Kit. As before, Clean up all Plastic, but do NOT drill out any holes YET...
Some plastic Parts may not be used, as they were for the Basic Extruder Setup, which is discontinued.
These Plastic parts can be drilled out with 5mm (13/64") and 3mm (1/8") drill bits. Make sure NOT to drill the small bottom plate. IF UNSURE, Read thru the next 10 steps to see the Un-drilled plate
Only Drill out the large 5mm hole on these parts
You can use a 2mm (5/64") or 3mm (1/8") drill bit for the Filament tunnel.
When drilling out the Small gear, grip lightly with some pliers, Avoid tearing up your fingers
This is the Drive shaft Spacer, use the Pliers, or else...
The top plate has a bearing, it should protrude above the plate surface. The bottom of the plate should be flush with the bottom of the bearing
Here's the Drive shaft assembled. Note the two washers, then the bearing, then the spacer we just drilled, then the MK8 filament gear. You can tighten the setscrew now.
Place Drive shaft in the Extruder Block, Note the block orientation
Place the Top plate on the drive shaft, and put the 3mm bolts in position. The lower plate also is placed around the bearing
Now thread the 3mm bolts into the Un-drilled bottom plate. Tighten snug, but don't strip the bottom plate.
The Assembly should be quite solid, and the 3mm bolts barely protruding below the bottom plate
Drill out both Tension Bolt holes with 3mm or 1/8" drill bit
This is the Tension ARM, Assemble with washers on each side of bearing. NOTE the washers have a rounded edge, that should face the bearing
Tighten the 5mm Bolt with a nut, so that it sinks DEEP into the ARM top plate. The #4 screw can be tough, pilot with 2mm drill if necessary
NOW drill out the ARM hinge with 3mm (1/8") drill. Clean out debris with a knife between them
Again, the 3mmx25 bolt thread into the Un-drilled bottom plate. It goes thru top plate, #6 washer, ARM, another #6 washer, and into bottom plate. Orient Arm with bolt facing down as shown
This is where you should be!!! Make sure the Arm moves, but isn't too loose. Also make sure bearing spins freely. Very important that the Bearing is smooth. Also You may want to tighten the MK8 Gear now.
When Closed, Bearing bolt should clear top plate, if NOT, try to re-seat the bearing bolt deeper into recess.
Add 4 washers on the top of the drive shaft. NOT 2, but 4... thats FOUR...
Press a 3mm nut into the small gear
Use a short 3mm setscrew, threaded into nut
You can Slide the gear onto the motor shaft now, it may be easier later, when attaching the large gear.
Place 2 T nuts in base vslot
Secure plate with short 5mm Bolts, also secure motor with short 3mm bolts
There's my 4 washers Place a hex nut in the Large Gear, and spin the gear down. Or place the gear on the bottom, and thread the nut to the gear, pull the gear onto the nut, and spin down. Hold bottom of drive shaft to tighten while turning gear by hand. the small gear can be a challenge, but it has to be oriented how its shown, so the teeth will mesh correctly. Also, when rotating the gear, the MK7 setscrew may scrape the inside of the block for a while, make sure it eventually is smooth.
Thread the Bowden coupling into the large hole
Assemble the Tension Bolts as shown
Squeeze the 3mm tension nuts into the block with needle nose pliers. turning the printer face down may help
Bolt the Tension bolts thru the arm and block and thread into nuts. A bit past the nuts should be enough tension.
That's the Geared Extruder Assembly. This should give you 90mm/s with a .8 nozzle. I can print at 60mm/s with flawless results with this setup. Thanks, and don't forget the LED strip to light up your parts while they print.
Now to Attach the Gantry and Table onto the Main Frame.